A Beautiful Way to Go

Four years ago, just prior to getting married, I moved from an apartment I had lived in for twelve years to another about five blocks away. Overall, the move wasn’t much: same grocery store, post office, dry cleaner, etc, etc. The big change (other than the marriage) was that I was no longer so close to Prospect Park. An extra twenty minutes each way may not seem like much, but it adds an almost-prohibitive amount of time to a potential weekend walk or evening stroll after work. Brooklyn’s Prospect Park was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux and, though not as well-maintained, is very much the equal of their earlier Central Park. (Central Park is better maintained because the rich folks who live along its perimeter give piles of private money for its maintenance.) For me it was a big loss, though one that came with an equally big win: I am now just five minutes away from the gates of Green-Wood Cemetery. Green-Wood is one of the original garden cemeteries and is currently celebrating its 175th anniversary. To mark the occasion the Museum of the City of New York is hosting an exhibit titled A Beautiful Way to Go: New York’s Green-Wood Cemetery. It opened yesterday and runs through October 13.

Brooklyn's Green-Wood Cemetery

Brooklyn’s Green-Wood Cemetery

Garden cemeteries, sometimes called rural cemeteries, were a phenomenon of the nineteenth century, when American and European societies were industrializing rapidly and green space was becoming scarcer and scarcer for city dwellers. It may surprise you to know that in the late nineteenth century Green-Wood was the most-visited place in New York State after Niagara Falls. Graveyards are for the dead, final resting places for those who came before us and have now passed on; cemeteries are for the living, places to commune with nature and the past. One hundred and seventy-five years later Green-Wood is still serving this function. No matter how many times I have been there–and it is in the hundreds by now–I always see something new on each visit. It is not hard to do, whether it’s reading the many freshly-planted headstones of the 4,000 Civil War soldiers buried there, poking my head into the bars of a mausoleum to peek at the Tiffany windows, or seeing the sun hitting a familiar vista at a different angle during the change of seasons. I am looking forward to catching this show in the coming weeks, and will have more to say about it here on the blog after I do.

The art of Conrad Wise Chapman

Bombardment of Fort Moultrie, Charleston Harbor, South Carolina (1864)

Bombardment of Fort Moultrie, Charleston Harbor, South Carolina (1864)

The Civil War and American Art exhibit ended its run at the National Portrait Gallery a few weeks back and is currently under installation at the Metropolitan Museum here in the Big Apple. It will be showing all summer and is well worth the trip. Though I saw it in DC, I intend to go back–probably more than once–during its time here in Gotham. There are many great works in the show; my favorites were the landscapes of Conrad Wise Chapman, a Virginian who lived with his family in Italy prior to the war with his artist father. The Chapman works on display in this sesquicentennial show are primarily landscapes he painted for the Ordinance Bureau during the Confederate defense of Charleston Harbor. On the simplest level the paintings work as literal representations of Confederate camp life during the siege, just as Winslow Homer’s sketchings depicted the quotidian life of Union soldiers. Chapman’s works are more than that though. Whatever his thoughts on secession, slavery, and the other issues of the day, Chapman was an artist of the first order. He reminds me of the Dutch Masters in his use of natural light. He was equally adept at depth and scale.

Chapman was all but forgotten in the decades after Appomattox. Southerners, impoverished by the war’s destruction, did not have the financial resources to buy art the way their Northern counterparts did. The overt Confederate imagery was another minus in the art market of the Gilded Age. Chapman remained active throughout the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, mainly living as an expatriate in Mexico and Europe. Most of the Charleston Series ended up in the care of the Museum of the Confederacy in 1898. Chapman lived another twelve years and died in poverty in 1910. Now we may be entering something of a Chapman renaissance. First, there was his place in the Civil War and American Art exhibition. Now, Sotheby’s is auctioning one of his postwar paintings, Paisaje del Valle de Mexico con el Lago de Texcoco, later this month. The landscape is projected to sell for a cool $125,000-175,000.

(image/Gibbes Museum of Art)

The New York State Museum’s Civil War

I mentioned yesterday that I went to Albany this past Saturday to see the New York State Museum’s mammoth exhibit, An Irrepressible Conflict: The Empire State in the Civil War. There have been many excellent exhibits throughout the sesquicentennial, and I must say that this makes the short list of the very best. Here are some highlights.

Frederick Douglass, circa 1845

Frederick Douglass, circa 1845

This daguerreotype of Frederick Douglass is believed to be the first visual image taken of the publisher/abolitionist. Note how young he looks. Upstate New York was a hotbed of abolitionism in the decades prior to the war. The region was also one of the key routes of the Underground Railroad. John Brown, of course, lived in the area.

Erie Canal plaque, 1825

Erie Canal plaque, 1825

The scale is difficult to make out because there is nothing beside it with which to compare, but this plaque was about 2 feet tall and three feet wide. It is from the opening of the Erie Canal in 1825. The Erie Canal is something of a forgotten part of American history, but it was instrumental in tying the Atlantic Seaboard to the Midwest. I had never associated the two in my mind but, coincidentally or not, New York State abolished slavery two years after the canal’s opening.

1860 Republican Party poster

Again the scale is tough to make out, but this campaign poster from 1860 measured about three by five feet. I loved the reference to Edwin Morgan, who won the New York gubernatorial race and was hugely influential in raising men and materiel for the Union cause.

Currier and Ives memorial print

Currier and Ives memorial certificate

The photograph did not come out well but this object was so moving that I had to include anyway. Currier and Ives sold such certificates to the loved ones of those killed in the war. I imagine these were common, being an inexpensive way to commemorate the loss of a son, husband, or brother. If the soldier was buried far away, as many of course were, a lithograph of a headstone hanging in the parlor would have to do.

U.S. Substitute & Volunteer Agency

U.S. Substitute & Volunteer Agency

“Substitutes furnished”

"Facts for Men who Do Their Own Thinking"

“Facts for Men who Do Their Own Thinking”

This was a pro-Lincoln broadside from the 1864 election versus McClellan.

Returned Volunteer/How the Fort Was Taken, 1864

Returned Volunteer/How the Fort Was Taken, 1864

Sculptor John Rogers created many works with an abolitionist and Civil War motif before, during, and after the conflict. (See here from the New-York Historical Society.) The swords into plowshares reference is easy to intuit. Like the Currier & Ives certificates, these would have been low-cost ways for people to remember the war. Returned Volunteer remained in the Rogers’s catalog until 1889, a quarter century after it was first produced.

Spring

Spring

There was so much in the museum I had to step out and recharge my batteries. The people at the museum said it was unusually slow because the weather was so nice. Having left the house at 6:00 am to get the train from Penn Station to Albany, I was quite hungry. So, taking the advice of the museum folks, I headed to Lark Street for lunch. You have to pack it in on these day trips.

Elmer E. Ellsworth, 1837-1861

Elmer E. Ellsworth, 1837-1861

Another difficult one to make out, but this handbill commemorated Elmer Ellsworth’s one hundredth birthday in 1937. I found this interesting because it shows that the Civil War was not that long ago in the grand scheme of things. I mean, it’s from the FDR-era for heaven’s sake.

One for the Hayfoot

One for the Hayfoot

. . . and the pièce de résistance: the chair from Grant’s Cottage in which he raced against the clock to finish his memoirs before he died.

All-in-all it wasn’t a bad Saturday. You can catch An Irrepressible Conflict  at the New York State Museum in Albany through September 22. It is a long train trip from the city, but then again there is only one Civil War sesquicentennial.

Jews and the Civil War

index

I just back from the city. This evening I went with a friend from work to see Passages through the Fire: Jews and the Civil War at the Jewish Museum on 16th Street. The recently opened exhibit is co-sponsored by Yeshiva University Museum and the American Jewish Historical Society. It was quite the New York evening, complete with dinner afterward at a coffee shop down the street from the museum as the rain pounded down outside. Tonight was actually the curator’s walk-through. Last month, a few days after the exhibit began, I tried to rsvp for what I thought was the only such event; to my surprise the coordinator emailed back to say they were booked. Again to my surprise, she said I could book for April. The curator talks are apparently once a month affairs. I was glad we went tonight to get the curator’s perspective. It is a part of Civil War and United States history we do not hear too much about. When we think “Jewish American history” we think Ellis Island, Lower East Side, and The Jazz Singer, not Shiloh, Chancellorsville, and the March to the Sea. The show is fascinating on its own. It is also a lesson in letting go of one’s preconceived notions whatever the topic.

I had been looking forward to Passages since hearing about it over two years ago. The show is a continuation of sorts of a similar exhibition put on by the Jewish Museum fifty years ago during the Centennial. That 60s show, The American Jew in the Civil War, was a pioneering exhibit that examined the role of American Jewry in the War of the Rebellion, borrowing heavily from the expertise of the late Rabbi Bertram Korn. His is still the authoritative book on the subject. There were 125,000 Jews living in the United States in 1860, up from the 15,000 twenty years earlier. Approximately 10,000 Jews, many of them recent immigrants, fought in the war. They fought for myriad reasons, and as with all other groups the Jewish community had its share of heroes and scoundrels. The exhibit does not shy away from the complicated story. I was already intending to go back in the summer before it ends in August. I was only more excited to do so after hearing that they will be tinkering with the artifacts and signage in the coming days. If in New York try to see this one before it ends.

Getting our sesquicentennial on, Gotham style . . .

(postcard circa 1907-1915, New York Public Library)

Monday evening coming down

I just got back from my trip to Washington. I managed to visit the Library of Congress, National Portrait Gallery, and even sneak in a quick rendezvous to the Postal Museum while I was killing time this morning waiting for my bus. I was glad to see that the U.S. and International Stamps Gallery is again open to the public. When I was there about two years ago it was closed due to a leak in that part of the museum. It is good to see it up and running again. The stamps themselves are, after all, what the museum is all about.

The coolest thing I saw over the weekend was the Jedediah Hotchkiss map of the Shenandoah Valley, which was part of the Library of Congress’s sesquicentennial exhibit. According to this 1948 LOC document the Library of Congress owns over 600 hundred Hotchkiss maps from during and after the war. Major Hotchkiss was a cartographer who worked primarily for Stonewall Jackson. The one on display was from Jackson’s Valley Campaign. One does not have to be a Lost Causer to admire it as a work of art and engineering. I’m not sure how this one entered the collection, but apparently it was acquired by the Library of Congress in 1964. The how’s and why’s of how such documents get into various collections is fascinating in and of itself. In the case of the Civil War, collections were often donated to various repositories and museums by children or grandchildren well into the twentieth century, as late of the 1950s and 60s.

Catching up on my email and internet, I noticed that Beatle mentor Tony Sheridan died over the weekend. I always thought of him as being so much older than the Beatles but he was only 72, more or less the same age as Fabs. I mentioned just the other day that the Beatles and their inner circle are passing on. A few days ago Amazon UK posted the bibliographic details for volume one of Mark Lewisohn’s  trilogy. As Lewisohn said there might be, there is to be an “author’s cut” and a “publisher’s cut.” Volume one for the author’s cut logs in at over 1,800 pages. It will be interesting to see what he comes up with that is new. The first volume ends in December 1862, so there will be a great deal on the late Tony Sheridan. Sad to know he’s gone.

Presidents Day weekend

I am on the Boltbus to DC. We just crossed under the Hudson into New Jersey.

I was having a conversation with someone the other day in which we were talking about the things that are uniquely of the 21st century. Hard as it is to believe, but we are now more than a full decade into the new millennium. The people of the 20th century saw the introduction of radio, television, and the personal computer. But what is new and unique so far to the 21st century? A few things we came up with were the eReader, the iPad and other tablet devices, and for those who live in the Northeast Corridor, the Boltbus. It has become such a part of the fabric of life in this region. I firmly believe that some filmmaker a half century from now will create a nostalgic scene in which two young lovers, circa 2010, head off for a weekend alone in the big city by taking this cheap and thoroughly enjoyable mass transit. Don’t laugh. Woody Allen did something similar in his depictions of, say, the Automat in Radio Days.

This weekend I am hoping to see the Civil War exhibit at the Library of Congress. Also on the list is the Civil War and American Art show at the Smithsonian’s  American Art Museum. This will actually be at the Met later this year, but there is going to be so much to it that I want to see it more than once; viewing art can be exhausting and emotionally draining. Speaking of the Met, this is a Holiday Monday coming up. Winter is a great time to visit, especially with the Matisse show set to run for one more month.

I have blogged about the Met’s New American Wing before. Here is a short video that PBS Channel Thirteen released this week about the works of Augustus Saint-Gaudens at the Metropolitan Museum. It is really something to live in New York and walk past these sculptures every day when going about your business. Yesterday morning I paused briefly in front of Saint-Gaudens’s statue of General Sherman while I was on my way to the dentist. No matter how long I live here, I will aways be a tourist. I love the still photograph in the video of what I assume was the dedication ceremony. It is lost on us today that people turned out by the thousands, even hundreds of thousands, for such occasions. Pretty wild.

Enjoy the video and your weekend.

Sunday morning coffee

The new Barnes Foundation, Philadelphia

Hey everybody, it is Sunday morning. The Hayfoot left for work awhile ago. I’m sitting here having my Sunday coffee. Things are returning to a semblance of normalcy here in Gotham. We went to the Barnes Foundation yesterday with our friend Charles. I’m still trying to process the new versus the old Barnes. More in a later post. Actually we had quite the adventure yesterday. We left Brooklyn at 6:15, got on the subway to the transfer point to catch the shuttle bus into Manhattan; at this time there was no subway service across the river because the tubes had been flooded during Hurricane Sandy. Either due to poor planning or manpower exhaustion there were not enough buses and personnel when we arrived at the shuttle still before 7:00 am. Buses were coming one by one to take thousands of commuter into the city. This was in contrast to Thursday and Friday when there was  a significant police and transportation presence during the commute. My impression is that they were not expecting that many people so early in the morning. I give the city the benefit of the doubt; they have been overworked this past week. Still, the pushing shoving easily could have escalated into something worse. That it was a chilly November morning was fortunate; had it been a steamy day in the dog days of August we might might well have had a tragedy on our hands as tempers rose with the heat.

Once on the bus we were texting Charles our progress. We had to catch the Boltbus near NY Penn Station at 8:15 to get to Philadelphia. Once there, things were anticlimactic. The bus ride was uneventful. The one thing worth noting were the LONG gas lines we saw at the rest stops in New Jersey. I’m not sure everyone thought they’d be smart by going to the turnpike gas stations to fill up; if that was their plan, it didn’t work. It is always fun leaving the city for a day trip, especially after the events of the previous week. I have mixed feelings, to say the least, about the relocation of the Barnes from Merion to Philadelphia, but the artwork itself is something to behold. Again, more on this after I’ve had some time to think it through.

Counting our blessings.

(image courtesy of Small Bones via Wikimedia Commons)

Manet’s Civil War

The Battle of the Kearsarge and the Alabama

I just booked the bus tickets to take the Hayfoot and a friend to the Barnes Museum in early November. We visited the old Barnes four years ago and are eager to see what they have done with the new facility. I have heard mixed reviews. Another great museum in the City of Brotherly Love is the Philadelphia Art Museum. One of the works in its collection is Manet’s The Battle of the U.S.S. “Kearsarge” and the C.S.S. “Alabama.”  For some reason the exhibition catalog for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2003 show Manet and the American Civil War came through my in box the other day. Alas this one somehow fell under my radar nine years ago, probably because I returned to graduate school in January ’03 and was too busy. I am sitting here having my Sunday coffee entranced by the story of Manet and the Kearsarge. The Met Museum website explains:

On June 19, 1864, the United States warship Kearsarge sank the Confederate raider Alabama off the coast of Cherbourg, France, in one of the most celebrated naval engagements of the American Civil War. The battle was widely reported in the illustrated press and riveted public attention on both sides of the Channel. When Kearsarge later anchored off the French resort town of Boulogne-sur-Mer it was thronged by curious visitors, one of whom was the artist Édouard Manet. Although he did not witness the historic battle, Manet made a painting of it partly as an attempt to regain the respect of his colleagues after having been ridiculed for his works in the 1864 Salon. Manet’s picture of the naval engagement and his portrait of the victorious Kearsarge belong to a group of his seascapes of Boulogne whose unorthodox perspective and composition would profoundly influence the course of French painting.

It is a fascinating story on many levels, artistically, socially, diplomatically, and otherwise. For one thing it is often lost on us that the rest of the world, or at least Europe, was paying attention to our Civil War. It makes one see Manet with a different perspective as well.  Check it out here, and enjoy your Sunday.

A museum Monday

Young Husband: First Marketing, Lilly Martin Spencer (1854)

I went to the Metropolitan Museum of Art today for Holiday Monday. I had the museum almost entirely to myself, in part I suspect because many folks worked today and those who didn’t were outdoors enjoying the cool weather. The Holiday Mondays on which the Met tends to get the most traffic are Martin Luther King Jr and Presidents Days, when more people are off and everyone is trying to find something to do indoors because it is so cold out. Someone at the museum told me that next year the museum is going to be open every Monday, as I believe if once used to be. I cannot get enough of the New American Wing. I love the confluence of art and history, especially in the antebellum period before photography when realism was more important for our understanding of society.

I was at a public function last Wednesday where someone mentioned the beautiful Augustus Saint-Gaudens Farragut statue in Madison Square Park. She had recently read David McCullough’s The Greater Journey: Americans in Paris and was especially moved by McCullough’s take on the sculptor’s efforts to bring the artwork to reality. (The short version is here.) This led to a discussion of how much thought, tim, and effort artists expend on and for their work. That conversation was going through my mind when I checked out Gauden’s mock-up for the larger piece:

Admiral David Glasgow Farragut
Augustus Saint-Gaudens (1879-1880)

Speaking of museums, in late spring I mentioned a trip a friend and I took to the Brooklyn Navy Yard. The clip below is from an exhibit that opened this week at the New-York Historical Society about New York City during World War 2. I have always been entranced by this time period, partially because of my love for Woody Allen movies and Pete Hamill’s stories and non-fiction. Both saw the war and the city through the prism of young boys’ eyes. I have this one penciled in for Black Friday. It is hard to believe Thanksgiving is just six weeks away.

(images courtesy Metropolitan Museum of Art, painting (top) promised gift)