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Category Archives: National Park Service

The American Gateway

28 Sunday Apr 2013

Posted by Keith Muchowski in National Park Service, New York City

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A friend and I went to Fort Wadsworth yesterday. The last time I was there was two years ago, when the Hayfoot and I visited the group of fortifications in Staten Island with someone we know. It is always a bit of a journey getting to these types of places in the outer boroughs. The way we go entails taking the subway to Bay Ridge and then a bus across the Verrazano. Bay Ridge is its own corner of New York City, and one that at least on the surface looks the same as it always did. You half expect to see Tony Manero strutting down the street eating two slices of pizza, stacked on top of each other of course.

Verrazano Bridge from Staten Island

Verrazano Bridge from Staten Island

We had a great time yesterday visiting these New York Harbor forts whose history includes, among many other things, a young Captain Robert E. Lee working in the Narrows two decades before the Civil War. To our surprise and disappointment the Visitor Center was closed, due to Superstorm Sandy, sequestration, or something else I don’t know. Despite the disappointment we made the best of things and troopered on. It’s not tough when you have views like these:

Battery Weed and ship in New York Harbor

Battery Weed and ship in New York Harbor

Wadsworth is part of the Park Service’s Gateway National Recreation Area, which was created forty years ago to provide the ten million or so people in the Greater New York area with recreational and other opportunities. Golden Gate National Recreational Area was founded at the same time. Gateway success has been mixed. Millions visit its beaches every year, providing opportunities for those who otherwise might have to do without. It has also saved significant acreage of natural habitat, and created even more. It is strange to be hiking in marshland while seeing the Manhattan skyline in the far off distance. That’s Gateway. At the same time the consortium of sites has always had something of an identity crisis, struggling as it tries to be many things at once. Access is difficult. The infrastructure in many parts is aged and dilapidated, with predictable results on visitation statistics.

Gateway’s roots go back decades before the creation of the recreation area; in the 1930s and 1940s Robert Moses was active in many projects that eventually came under one umbrella in 1972. The storm of October 2012 is a tragedy and an opportunity for the various sites that make up the recreation area. Cathy Newman of National Geographic has more on the story. She won me over when she called Moses the “master builder,” and not the psychotic “power broker” we have been force fed by Robert Caro.

The Park Service, States of New York and New Jersey, and City of New York seem to be grasp the historical moment. There are significant challenges as well. It will be interesting to see what happens in the next few years.

Questions for Ranger Shelton Johnson

14 Thursday Mar 2013

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Interviews, National Park Service

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Gloryland_frontcoverShelton Johnson’s Gloryland is one of the most meaningful books I have read in recent years. The novel tells the story of Elijah Yancy, a Buffalo Soldier serving in the U.S. Army at the turn of the twentieth century. The book is many things: a meditation on the importance of family and place, a reminder of the role that nature plays, or should play, in all of our lives, a treatise on the ironies and injustices of race in America, a thoughtful work of literature. If you have not read Gloryland, I recommend adding it to your reading list. Regular readers of this site may remember Ranger Johnson from the poignant short film The Way Home. He was also prominent in Ken Burns’s The National Parks: America’s Best Idea. Ranger Johnson has had a long and successful career with the NPS and currently serves at Yosemite National Park. Recently, he took time from his busy schedule to answer some question about his debut novel, his thoughts on Interpretation, and more.

The Strawfoot: The protagonist of your novel, Gloryland, is Sergeant Elijah Yancy. Tell us something about him. Where was he born and what was his family history?

Ranger Johnson: Elijah is the son of sharecroppers.  His mother and father were enslaved before emancipation.  He was born in Spartanburg, SC and raised there until he left forever as a young man.

His grandmother was Seminole. Relations between African and Native Americans may surprise some readers. Is this something readers comment on?

The fact that he had 2 grandmothers who were Seminole and Cherokee would not surprise African American readers.  There was a census done around 1900 that determined that roughly 1 out of every 3 African Americans had an Indian branch to their family tree.  Certain Indian cultures took in runaway slaves such as the Seminole, but also the Cherokee and the Choctaw. Consequently, many African Americans are also part Indian as a result of this history.  It’s just that you never hear about it in popular culture such as novels and movies, but Black people have known about this heritage for years.  My maternal grandparents are Black Cherokees from Oklahoma.

Elijah was born on Emancipation Day, January 1, 1863, and had an older brother killed at Fort Wagner during the Civil War. What were the experiences of African American soldiers in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries? Fighting Indians, Cubans, Filipinos, and other people of color must have have, to say the least, brought about mixed feelings in these men. Is this something they discussed privately amongst themselves, or shared in letters to friends and loved ones back home?

This fact and the soldiers feelings about this “activity” was shared in their correspondence.  There’s a book that collects some of these reminiscences entitled, “Smoked Yankees and the Struggle for Empire” by Willard Gatewood.  In these letters you can hear how the buffalo soldiers felt about their struggle with the Filipino Insurrectos, men that were fighting for their own freedom from the Spanish, and then the U.S.  They were definitely aware of the irony! Some of these soldiers just concentrated on doing their duty.  Period. But others were conflicted, most notably David Fagan who deserted from the American forces and joined with the Filipino people and their struggle for independence.  Some of the Buffalo Soldiers stayed on in the Philippines after the war, married, and became part of the culture.  There was even a call for African Americans to move to the Philippines because life there was so much better than life at the time in any part of the South…

You have spoken to many descendants of Buffalo Soldiers over the years. Yancy himself is telling his story thirty years after his military service ended. Were the stories these men had to tell passed on from one generation to the next, or is it something that has only come to light in recent decades?

I haven’t spoken to many descendants, but I have spoken to a few.  These stories/contributions were passed on from family member to family member, generation to generation.  They weren’t in the history books but they were shared in the homes of hundreds of families…

What was it like working as a Buffalo Soldier in Yosemite National Park in 1903? Why were they there and what duties did they perform?

It was hard work, but a soldier was used to hard work!  It was also a “dream” job so to speak.  One officer referred to service in Yosemite as “the Cavalryman’s Paradise!”  Their duties weren’t that different from today’s Wilderness Ranger, i.e. long patrols, enforcement of park rules and regulations, basically providing a presence of authority, that the park was being taken care of…

Shelton_JohnsonYou grew up in Detroit, but also spent time in Europe and elsewhere because your father was in the Army. What was it like living in these places?

I was very young at the time so my memories are vivid but limited!  I went to Kindergarten in Germany and first grade in England, but those memories became very important once I returned to Detroit because they provided an imaginative alternative to the inner city environment that was my home for many years.  Most of my friends in Detroit had never been overseas let alone lived overseas.  It made it easier for me to imagine life in a place that was different…

How did you eventually come to work for the National Park Service and what inspired you to do so?

I was a student in the University of Michigan’s Master of Fine Arts Program in Creative Writing.  My emphasis was poetry.  I decided to take a job as a dishwasher in Yellowstone National Park. I did this because I grew up in Detroit watching nature programs with my grandfather who used to fish on Mackinac Island.  I remember seeing many documentaries about Yellowstone and the other national parks but I had never visited a national park in this country.  I had been in the mountains before during the time my family lived in Germany.  We visited Berchtesgaden or Eagle’s Nest which was a former stronghold of Hitler during WWII.  It was also high in the Bavarian Alps and I never forgot the beauty of those snowy mountains…

Traditionally, African American attendance at National Parks, especially the nature parks, has been significantly lower than that of whites. One of your goals is to increase awareness of the National Parks within the African American community. What are some of the misconceptions Africans Americans, Latinos, and other minority groups have about Yellowstone, Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, and elsewhere?

I think it’s basically an unknown and with any unknown there’s a certain amount of fear.  Some African American are nervous about visiting ANY area where there are very few other African Americans.  You have to remember that there’s a history of violence against African Americans, and those cultural memories are alive and well.  There’s still fear of groups like the KKK and other supremacist organizations, and that results in fear and anxiety.  People don’t go on vacation to be fearful or anxious!  Consequently, some African Americans who briefly considered a trip to a national park, decide to go somewhere else because of this fear of the unknown.  But history can work in your favor too.  The knowledge that the Buffalo Soldiers once protected Yosemite and Sequoia can result in a feeling of ownership and pride rather than fear and that can lead to a trip back to the mountains.

Who, or what, would you say are your greatest intellectual influences?

Too many to list. I was a literature major!  John Keats, Langston Hughes, Shelley, Richard Wright, Shakespeare, Chaucer, St. John Perse, Cavafy, Anna Akmatova, Pablo Neruda, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Aime Cesaire, and the list goes on!

You have a Literature background. What role, if any, has this played in your approach to Interpretation?

It has shaped everything in terms of structure and content with regard to my Interpretive programs, as well as my classical music background!

(images/top, Sierra Club; bottom, National Park Service)

Gettysburg notes

02 Saturday Mar 2013

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Gettysburg, Heritage tourism, National Park Service

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Demolition of the Gettysburg cyclorama building, March 1, 2013

Demolition of the Gettysburg cyclorama building, March 1, 2013

As you can see, the demolition of the old Visitor Center and Cyclorama building has begun. I imagine all traces of the Mission 66 structure will be gone by the late June when the 150th anniversary gets underway. In other Gettysburg news, Superintendent Kirby announced that the sequestration will not impact the sesquicentennial events thanks to some advance planning and creative juggling. Other National Parks, Civil War and otherwise, have not been so fortunate, with many limiting hours and services during these difficult days.

(image by Matthew Amster, courtesy LA Mag)

The Way Home

13 Wednesday Feb 2013

Posted by Keith Muchowski in National Park Service

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I am halfway through re-reading Shelton Johnson’s Gloryland and thought I would re-post this film in which he participated. If you have never seen it, enjoy; and if you have, experience it again.

 

Hey everybody, you never know what is waiting for you when you log on but today something special came through my inbox. Amy Marquis, an associate editor at National Parks Magazine, has just released a short film chronicling a visit to Yosemite by a group of late adult African Americans. For most, perhaps all, it was their visit to a national park. I’ll let the film say the rest.

January Days at Liberty Island

30 Wednesday Jan 2013

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Ellis Island, National Park Service

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Liberty Island, January 2013

Liberty Island, January 2013

Here’s a quick link to the latest goings on in New York Harbor after Superstorm Sandy.

The last few days have been unseasonably warm here in the city. I hope the weather speeds the rehabilitation process at Ellis and Liberty Islands. I won’t be able to visit until it is open to the general public, but I am eager to get out there and see the islands. Maybe I shouldn’t have been, but I was surprised at the extent of the damage. The devastation and cleanup of the national monuments in New York Harbor is a story ripe for some future historian. What they are doing now will be yet another chapter in the centuries-long history of these places.

Looking forward to spring.

(image/National Park Service)

Cyclorama building coming down

12 Saturday Jan 2013

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Gettysburg, National Park Service

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I am a little late getting to this one because I’m still catching up after vacation, but the Park Service announced this week that they will indeed be tearing down the old cyclorama building and visitor center. I have been following this story with great interest for some time now, and cannot tell you how relieved I am that they made the decision they did. The old building will probably be razed in time for the sesquicentennial this coming July. Perhaps it is a little too easy for me to say because the old building was never part of my personal Gettysburg experience–I visited for the first time in 2008 a few months after the new VC opened–but the Mission 66 structure never worked functionally or aesthetically. For one thing the air conditioning unit was directly behind the painting, blowing dirt and dust into the art work; for another the panels of the 12 1/2 ton cyclorama hung unevenly, causing further damage. The old building will always be part of the story of Gettysburg National Military Park, especially for the generation that came of age during the centennial. One of my best friends fondly recalls visiting from New Jersey as part of a field trip in the early 1970s. These are no small things; preserving and interpreting our culture are why out national parks and monuments exist in the first place. Still, we create new traditions each time we visit Gettysburg. This is what keeps it meaningful and alive. I am looking forward to seeing what the powers-that-be do with the land upon which the old building currently stands.

In a somewhat related story GNMP is taking advantage of the slower winter months to clean the cyclorama painting itself. The public is invited to watch the process, which is being undertaken from 8:00-5:00 Monday-Friday through February 1. Shelby Foote once famously said that one should visit the Civil War parks at the time of year during which the battle took place (Shiloh in spring, Fredericksburg in December, etc) to best understand what took place. This makes sense on one level, but I disagree. The history of the parks–now 150 years old and counting–is part of the story as well. Go when you can and you might be surprised at what you see.

The Hidden Hand in action

22 Saturday Dec 2012

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Dwight D. Eisenhower, Gettysburg, National Park Service

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One of my favorite places in the city of Gettysburg is Eisenhower’s Farm. I wrote my masters thesis on Eisenhower and know a fair amount about the president and general. Ike’s ties to the town go all the way back to Great War, when the then junior officer trained troops at Gettysburg’s Camp Colt. Many people do not know that one of the primary purposes of the national military parks was–and is–to train American service personnel in military and leadership strategy. Eisenhower trained members of the nascent U.S. Tank Corps at Camp Colt. It was 1917, just four years after the 50th anniversary Blue-Grey reunion.

After the Second World War Ike and Mamie purchased a farm in Gettysburg, from which one gets a spectacular view of Little Round Top. The farm was a staging ground for Pickett’s Charge. Among other things Eisenhower raised prize-winning Angus cattle at his farm, and took the task pretty seriously. He entered his cattle in numerous competitions, often anonymously to avoid favoritism, and won a fair amount of the time. During his White House years Eisenhower used the Gettysburg farm to relax with his family, attend to his gentleman farming, and also–no small thing–charm foreign dignitaries. Eisenhower had formidable interpersonal skills and, for good reason, believed he could win just about anybody over if he could spend time with them in both formal and informal situations. This is where the Angus cattle came in; Ike loved taking other heads-of-state out to the barn to show them his prize-winning bulls, have a photo op, and then discuss world affairs in the tranquil setting once the press had been dispatched. A few who got the hidden hand treatment in such a manner included India’s Jawaharlal Nehru (December 1956), West German Chancellor Konrad Adenauer (May 1957), Nehru nemesis Winston Churchill (May 1959, after he left Downing Street), Nikita Khrushchev (September 1959), and Eisenhower nemesis Charles de Gaulle (April 1960), among others.

Gloria Hertley donating sign to the Eisenhower National Historic Site. Note the photograph of  Ike and Nehru, partially obscured in the upper right corner above the ranger's head.

Gloria Hertley donating sign to the Eisenhower National Historic Site. Note photograph of Ike and Nehru, partially obscured in the upper right corner.

In a lighter news story, the farm’s heritage became a bit more complete this month when Gloria Hartley, widow of herdsman and farm manager  Bob Hartley, donated the original Eisenhower Farms sign to the National Park Service. Preserving small details of our national heritage such as this is something the Park Service does well.

Bob Hartley with Angus bull at show, Chicago 1961. Note sign in background.

Bob Hartley with Angus bull at show, Chicago 1961. Note sign in background.

(images: top, NPS; bottom, Hanover, PA Evening Sun)

Ellis Island update

10 Monday Dec 2012

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Ellis Island, National Park Service

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About two weeks ago I mentioned the layoffs at Ellis Island National Monument. At first I was cautiously hopeful that Ellis would not be closed to the public for the six months the Park Service originally estimated. Apparently it will indeed be off limits until Spring 2013. Now federal officials are saying that they must move 1.7 million artifacts from the island to prevent their damage. These items, relating to the arrival in America of nearly 12 million immigrants between 1892-1924, will be held in Maryland. No word yet on when they may be returning, but I imagine it will not be until late 2013 at the earliest. The biggest objective right now is rebuilding the island’s infrastructure and making the buildings safe for visitors. This is a really sad story.

I am no longer a volunteer at Ellis Island National Monument and so don’t have the inside bead on the extent of the damage caused by Superstorm Sandy I once might have. All I’ve had to go on has been a phone call from a friend saying that he has been laid off for an indefinite period and what I can glean from the news. Last week it was announced that the Liberty and Ellis Islands would remain closed through the end of the year. Today the news is that 400 have been laid off, perhaps though April 2013. That would be a full six months closed to the public. I cannot tell you how sad this makes me. What hurts the most is that the it is now the holiday season–the busiest time of the year at Ellis. I know that by the end of the year is unrealistic but I hope they can manage to get at least partial visitation up-and-running in early 2013. For one thing this touches a great deal of the New York economy, as anyone who as ever been to the Battery knows. We shall see.

(image/Kadelarr)

Don’t do this at home . . .

08 Thursday Nov 2012

Posted by Keith Muchowski in National Park Service

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Here is a reminder that our national parks are not amusement parks here merely for our edification:

Springfield Man Admits Removing Remains Of Confederate

Soldier From Wilson’s Creek Battlefield

Must Pay Restitution, Perform Community Service

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE  November 7, 2012

 

SPRINGFIELD, Mo. – David M. Ketchmark, Acting United States Attorney for the Western District of Missouri, announced today that a Springfield, Mo., man has admitted to removing human remains from the Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield.

Coy Matthew Hamilton, 31, of Springfield, must pay $5,351 in restitution to the National Park Service and perform 60 hours of community service as conditions of avoiding federal prosecution.

“It’s a serious offense to disturb an archeological site and to remove remains or artifacts,” Ketchmark said. “We hope this incident will serve to educate the public about the laws that protect our priceless archaeological resources.”

Here is the full press release from the U.S. Attorney’s Office.

Sunday morning coffee

16 Sunday Sep 2012

Posted by Keith Muchowski in National Park Service

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Hey everybody, this is the 400th post here at the Strawfoot.

We are sitting in our living room having our coffee and listening to the Statesmen Quartet. Gospel music on a Sunday morning is one of our small rituals. It varies between the Statesmen, Elvis, Sam Cooke, the Staples Singers, or various compilations I buy here in Brooklyn from sidewalk vendors. Our good friend Sami is coming in a while for breakfast. Sami is also a volunteer at Governors Island National Monument. We met him three years ago just after I met the Woman Who Became the Hayfoot and took her took her there one Friday in 2009. Sami was the one who talked me into leaving Ellis Island across the harbor. I am going to interview and profile him here on the blog in the coming weeks.

Earlier this week the National Park Service’s American Battlefield Protection Program released the draft of a report on preservation of the Civil War battlefields. They are seeking public input between now and October 12. The NPS had done an amazing job restoring our battlefields over the last 15-20 years and that work is on display right now during the sesquicentennial. We got gloriously lost last year at Antietam when we ventured off one of the walking trails thinking we’d make our won shortcut. We would have loved to have been at Antietam this weekend but we just couldn’t swing it. We are looking forward to seeing the handwritten Emancipation Proclamation next weekend in Harlem. I haven’t seen anything on it, but I would love to see someone put the Brady Studio images that shocked the nation on display here in New York in 2012 just as they were 150 autumns ago.

Enjoy your Sunday.

Roulette Farm, Antietam National Battlefield

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