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Category Archives: New York City

A new freedom trail?

22 Thursday Mar 2012

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Heritage tourism, New York City

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People are often unaware of the rich history of New York City. Part of this is due to the nature of life here, which for centuries has been to tear down the old and build anew. (A friend visiting from out of town last week was mortified when we entered the current Penn Station for a train ride to Long Island; she was expecting something akin to the original.) Nowhere is this truer than in Lower Manhattan, which is the part of the city settled the longest by European inhabitants. Every day millions of people arrive from New Jersey, Connecticut, and New York itself, taking mass transit to the steel and glass office towers and hurrying home at 5:00 pm. About the only major tourist activity in the area is the site where the World Trade Center once stood. The Harlem Historical Society is hoping to change this by creating a Freedom Trail similar to the one in Boston. The trail would focus on abolitionist and nineteenth century civil rights activity in New York City. When people think of New York and African Americans the first thing that jumps to mind is the Great Migration that brought people to Harlem in the twentieth century. The story is deeper than that. Hopefully the Freedom Trail will become a reality in the near future and more people will be aware of this history. The local community board has signed off. Funding from disparate sources will hopefully come next.

Above: Sojourner Truth was born into slavery in New York State in 1797 and lived in Lower Manhattan in the late 1820s and early 1830s.

(image/Wright’s New York Gallery (MI), Cowan’s Auctions)

The other New York

11 Sunday Mar 2012

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Memory, New York City

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New York Thruway

Many visitors to New York assume that the the five boroughs, especially Manhattan, “are” New York. Why shouldn’t they? Many who reside here think the same way as well. New York State has a rich heritage dating back nearly four centuries, longer of course when one factors in Native American history. That so few people are aware of this history is largely the state’s fault. In the early years of the twentieth century Virginia and Massachusetts rigorously advertised their roles in the American storyline. New York was slower to do so and has been paying the price ever since. That’s why schoolchildren learn about Bunker Hill and Appomattox but not the Battle of Long Island or Evacuation Day. Hopefully an initiative announced by Governor Andrew Cuomo this past Thursday will do something to rectify that. The “Path Through History” will bring together prominent historians to identify points of interest along the New York State Thruway where heritage tourists can get more than a cup of coffee and a fill up. The program is similar to the Journey Through Hallowed Ground that traces the Old Carolina Road through parts of Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania. The wife and I have taken the road less traveled many times and have always been rewarded by the experience.

No timeline has been set for the identifying and marking of historical points to interest along the nearly 600 miles of the New York Thruway, but my guess is that they will start popping up later this year or in 2013. There is certainly much to identify; a short list might include spots along the Underground Railroad, the William Seward home, John Brown’s farm, and Grant Cottage where the general and president died. This is a worthwhile endeavor that will highlight New York’s rich history while also bringing tourist dollars to parts of the state that do not always benefit as well as they might. Look for it soon.

(image/Doug Kerr)

A winter’s day

26 Sunday Feb 2012

Posted by Keith Muchowski in New York City

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Central Park, 11:30 a.m.

Bon weekend

17 Friday Feb 2012

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Monuments and Statuary, Museums, New York City, Washington, D.C.

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Hey everybody, I am off to Washington, DC tomorrow for President’s Day weekend. I love the nation’s capitol a little more with every visit. It is especially meaningful to be there for American-specific holidays. I was there last year for Memorial Day.

I am taking the Boltbus and am first going to visit the Smithsonian’s National Postal Museum, which is conveniently across the street from Union Station. The NPM has an exhibit of Lincoln certified plate proofs that I have wanted to see for awhile. Their website says its closing in “Summer 2012,” which doesn’t leave much wiggle room if one is trying to plan ahead. I have not been to the NPM in about seven years. Also on the agenda is the Corcoran Gallery of Art for the Shadows of History: Photographs of the Civil War from the Collection of Julia J. Norrell. It is not all Civil War. The real reason for the trip is to see my niece for the first time. Her three month birthday will be tomorrow.

If you live in the Big Apple, or are here for the weekend, remember that President’s Day is a Holiday Monday at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Last month I wrote about my visit to the New American Wing on the day of its re-opening after a four year renovation. Among other treasures in the maginficent new galleries are numerous works by Augustus Saint-Gaudens. When I visited last month I saw his Standing Lincoln. As it turns out this was a recent purchase by the Met, who announced the new acquisition on Lincoln’s Birthday this past Sunday. Something tells me Harold Holzer had a hand in this. Thankfully.

If you are looking to read the book on Lincoln as depicted in bronze and stone check out James Percoco’s Summers with Lincoln: Looking for the Man in the Monuments, which I bought at the National Gallery of Art the day after I proposed to my wife in a Washington hotel room.

An added bonus of the visiting the Met would be the chance to see the Romare Bearden exhibit, which I am going to scramble to catch before it closes on March 4.

Whatever you choose to do, have a safe and enjoyable weekend.

(image/1890 plate proof, Smithsonian National Postal Museum)

A tale of two Brooklyns

11 Sunday Dec 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in New York City

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Manhattan Bridge, 1974

In October 1997, just before I moved to New York, I was talking to a longtime friend’s mother on the telephone. I told her about my new job working for one on the public library systems in New York City and my new apartment in Brooklyn. To say she thought I was nuts would be putting it mildly; she thought I was Certifiable. It is easy to understand why. My friend and I grew up in South Florida, where we and virtually everyone–and I mean everyone, probably over 90%–our age was from somewhere else. “Where is your family from,” was a common question on the first day of school, and Brooklyn was by far the most common answer. (My family was from Connecticut.) My friend’s family was originally from Brooklyn and had moved to Florida in the early 1970s. Her Brooklyn was the Brooklyn of the 1950s and 60s, a place of increasing violence and seemingly permanent decline. I remember her words that night vividly: “Nobody moves to Brooklyn. Brooklyn is a place you get out of.” Indeed it was, and for good reason. This trend continued through the 1970s and 80s. Miraculously, for a variety of factors, Brooklyn and the rest of Gotham began turning around in the 1990s. Suddenly young, well educated types began moving to the outer boroughs, making the neighborhoods safer and more desirable. Go into any coffee shop in Park Slope, Carroll Gardens, or Fort Green and you will see what I mean. That was Brooklyn to which me and thousands of other twentysomethings moved during these years–and are still moving today desoite the economic crisis.

Carroll Gardens, 2008

For the most part the story of Brooklyn over the past two decades has been one of a vitality and rejuvenation that no one could have predicted during the crisis of the 60s, 70s, and 80s. The key words are “most part.” The worst of the worst is over, but there are still pockets of the city lagging behind. For every graphic artist who lives in East Williamsburg, shops at the Red Hook Fairway, and jams in an alternative band in DUMBO on the weekends, there is a Brooklyn family living in different circumstances. I saw this first hand in my time at the public library, where I worked in a corner of the borough so far out it wasn’t even served by the subway system. Kay S. Hymowitz of City Journal tells us how this happened.

(images/top, EPA; bottom, Jim Henderson)

Unearthing Gotham

06 Tuesday Dec 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in National Park Service, New York City

≈ 2 Comments

A year and a half ago, on the anniversary of the Battle of Brooklyn, my wife, some friends, and I took an organized tour of the battlefield. There is little physical evidence left to tell even the most observant that George Washington once led his troops down Flatbhush Avenue; a cannon here and there, a few plaques, and some witness trees are about it. Still, we walked the sites following the chronology of the battle at least getting s sense of the topography. The talk was conducted by an anthropologist–not historian–from Hunter College. It was one of the best and most informative of the dozens of tours I have been on in my years of visiting historical sites. I had always known of course that much history still lies below our feet waiting to be rediscovered. Laborers, most of them immigrants who had passed through Ellis Island, discovered the centuries-old Tijger when digging the 7th Avenue subway line in 1916. Construction workers unearthed the detritus of everyday Dutch colonial life during the construction of the Word Trade Center in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Last year another ship was found at what is now Ground Zero, this one dating back “only” to the late eighteenth century. Most famous of course is the African Burial Ground, which is now a national monument run by the Park Service. The ABG is commemorating the 20th anniversary of the rediscovery of the 17th century grave. Intellectually I had always known about phenomena like the ones I mentioned above. It is just that it was not until standing there at the entrance to Prospect Park–the very place where we and thousands of other New Yorkers buy their fruits and vegetables every Saturday–hearing this anthropologist talk about the soldiers’ remains likely still present eight to ten feet below us, did it hit home emotionally. It was announced this week that Con Ed workers have unearthed 5,000 new artifacts while digging on Fulton Street this autumn.

Ironically when New York City builds for the future it discovers more of its past.

My Civil War neighborhood

02 Friday Dec 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Monuments and Statuary, New York City

≈ Comments Off on My Civil War neighborhood

Hey everybody, I was running to a function in the city this morning. Cutting through Madison Square Park on my way to my destination I stopped to take a few photos on my cellphone.

This is the William Seward monument, which was dedicated in the Centennial year of 1876. That same year the arm of the Statue of Liberty was also placed in Madison Square Park, as a fund raising effort to procure proceeds for the completion of the statue that now stands in New York Harbor. The rumor on the street is that this is the head of Seward soldered onto the body of Lincoln. The reasoning is that, there being so many sculptors working on Lincoln figures in the decade after the sixteenth president’s assassination, it was quicker and less expensive to build the Seward statue in this manner. I have no idea if this is true but the gangly nature of the subject’s pose makes it seem plausible, doesn’t it?

This is Admiral David G. Farragut of “Damn the torpedoes” fame. Farragut was a Southerner but remained loyal to the Union. Next spring when I visit Woodlawn Cemetery in the Bronx I will make sure to see his final resting place. David McCullough wrote about this Augustus Saint-Gaudens piece in the Wall Street Journal in May. The more time passes the more fascinated I am with public art, especially monuments and statuary. Each tells a fascinating if obscure story to those wiling to listen.

I always get a kick out of the professional dog walkers. This one “only” had five.

The Empire State Building from Madison Square Park. It was a beautiful late autumn day in the city, crisp with blue skies and sunshine.

Around the corner is the 69th Regiment Armory. I blogged about this not long ago.

The building dates to 1904 but you can see from the inscriptions below that the famous regiment of course goes back to the Civil War.

It is hard to make out, but the first entry for battles engaged in by the 69th is Bull Run. Better blog photos are a 2012 resolution, pun intended. I was so happy to see the restored painting at the New-York Historical Society last week.

Finally I was off to my program, where I took this during the lunch break.

Enjoy your weekend.

Black Friday

25 Friday Nov 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Museums, New York City

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One of my favorite things to do the day after Thanksgiving is visit a museum.  Being that the New-York Historical Society opened earlier this month after a two year renovation, this year’s choice was a no-brainer.  I have been a habitué of the N-YHS since moving to New York over a decade ago.  If you are a serious student of American history and have never been to this institution, you simply must visit.  An added bonus is that it is directly across the street from Central Park and a few blocks north of the Dakota apartment building.  I always go out of my way to see the Dakota when I am in the area and it fills me with sadness every time.  Earlier this week I finished this.

When I exited the train station on 72nd street this morning the bleachers from yesterday’s Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade were still standing.

The New-York Historical Society’s institutional memory is unsurpassed.  The Society opened its doors in 1804, the year Vice-President Aaron Burr mortally wounded Alexander Hamilton in a duel on the cliffs of Weehawken, New Jersey overlooking Manhattan.  Thomas Jefferson was the sitting president and George Washington had died just five years earlier. Here are a few photos, all taken on my cell phone camera.

The scale is difficult to make out but these slave shackles were intended for small–very small–children.  This was from the first floor permanent exhibit.

No, this is not a ghost.  There were living historians at the Society today.

These Revolutionary War-era musket balls,

and buttons worn by British troops, are from archaeological digs in upper Manhattan.

The introductory film did an excellent job tracing the evolution of New York City from the time of the Lenape Indians, through the Dutch and Colonial eras, the Civil War, the Gilded and Jazz Ages, 9/11 and today.

I loved this contemporary figurine on the third floor’s visible storage area.

The ribbons are from Civil War reunions.  The first is from a UCV gathering in South Carolina in 1898; the second is from 1904.  It is often lost on people how far into the twentieth century Civil War veterans lived.

A tribute to General Michael Corcoran of the 69th New York.  Several months ago I wrote of the restoration of The Return of the 69th (Irish) Regiment, N.Y.S.M. from the Seat of War. I saw it today for the first time and can attest to its power. I have always loved the confluence of art and history.  I cannot wait until January when the New American Wing Galleries reopen at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  It has been almost three years.  I already have MLK Jr. Day marked on my calendar for a Holiday Monday visit.

It is hard to make out (again, cellphone camera), but this is a paper toy soldier of an African American doughboy.  The Centennial of the Great War is a little over two years away.

It is not all militaria.  The Society collects and interprets artifacts from all aspects of New York and American life.  This baseball sculpture was made in 1868.

Death masks are compelling because they remind us that historical figures were living people, not just names in a history book.  This is General Sherman.  My gosh, look at the detail in the beard.  They have the Lincoln Volk mask at the Society as well.

Frederick Douglass.  The statue is new.

All-in-all not a bad way to spend Black Friday.  No lines, no crazy customers, and a lot cheaper than the department store.

The New York armories

30 Sunday Oct 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in New York City

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Regimental armories dot the various neighborhoods of New York City, especially in Brooklyn and Manhattan.  Though some are still used by National Guard units, they are today primarily centers for social and artistic gatherings.  Most famously, of course, there was the 1913 Armory Show at the home of the 69th Regiment.  It was at the Armory Show–no other adjectives necessary–that Americans got their first view of Modern Art prior to the First World War.  The 69th is on the East Side and still very much a functioning military post.  Every time I am in the neighborhood for a meeting I note the lists of battles the 69th engaged in during the Civil and Great Wars.  My favorite armory, however, is the structure built for the 14th Brooklyn in Park Slope.  The building was built decades after the Civil War but is nonetheless part of the institutional memory of that unit.  Like other armories, the Park Slope building has undergone an extensive facelift.  Morley Safer of 60 Minutes fame has produced a PBS documentary on another armory, the Park Avenue building in Manhattan.

The Armory Show, 1913

The 69th Regiment Armory today

(Images: top/Percy Rainford; bottom/Beyond My Ken)

Should you happen to be in Brooklyn

20 Thursday Oct 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in New York City

≈ Comments Off on Should you happen to be in Brooklyn

U.S.S. Monitor

Like so much other matériel produced for the Union war effort, the USS Monitor was manufactured in Brooklyn.  This coming Saturday, in honor of the 150th anniversary of the construction of the ironclad, the Brooklyn Diggers are having this event in Greenpoint’s McGolrick Park.  More here.

(Image/Library of Congress and U.S. Naval Historical Center)

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