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Category Archives: New York City

A family life

16 Sunday Oct 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in New York City, Writing

≈ 1 Comment

Pete Hamill

The first time I ever heard of Pete Hamill was when I was working for a large chain bookstore in Texas.  A customer came through my line and bought Hamill’s then just-released memoir A Drinking Life.  I told him that the book was selling briskly and asked who Hamill was.  The patron defined Hamill as “the Mike Royko of New York.”  Because it was always my goal to live in the ultimate big city, I read the book that week. Soon, I had read all the titles held by the library.  A few years after that, when something called the World Wide Web made it possible for all of us to obtain the previously unobtainable, Hamill’s remaining books were the first things I purchased online from the out-of-print booksellers.  It seems like so long ago, but wasn’t.

A few years later I had moved to New York and was living in Brooklyn not far from where Hamill grew up.  Many in my neighborhood remembered him from the time Park Slope was still a working class enclave in the 1940s-50s.  His brother Denis is also a writer and newspaperman. The younger Hamill chronicles the city from a subtly different perspective.  His New York was that of the flower children and protests of the 60s, tempered by the decline of New York City that began then and accelerated with seemingly no end in sight through the early 1990s. Thankfully both writers lived long enough to see the city’s revitalization. The Hamills are still going strong.  For my birthday this past June the Hayfoot gave me Tabloid City.

The immigration experience is another aspect of both Hamills’ writing.  Their mother and father both came to New York from Ireland in the early 20th century.  Anne Devlin landed on October 29, 1929–the day Wall Street crashed.  She was nineteen. Although she herself did not land at Ellis Island, I always told the immigration story through the personal narratives of individuals like her when I volunteered at the museum.  Now the Hamill brothers’ sister Kathleen has written a moving book about a unique woman.

Enjoy the rest of your Sunday.

(Image/David Shankbone)

A Bronx Tale

07 Friday Oct 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Monuments and Statuary, Museums, New York City, Uncategorized

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Last Saturday a friend and I ventured to the Bronx.  After Staten Island this is the borough I know the least.  My friend and I made a pact to visit the borough more often this fall.

When one thinks of Colonial America, New York City does not spring to mind.  That is because so little of Gotham’s Colonial past remains.  The Valentine-Varian house lies on the Boston Post Road.

The Valentines were the original owners.  They tried to stay neutral during the Revolutionary War but still lost their fortune. After the war the Valentines began to struggle financially and the estate eventually fell into the hands of the Varians.  When it comes to New York City real estate, the more things change the more they stay the same.

A reminder that for a good portion of America’s history slavery was not confined to the South.

The Bronx River Soldier has a long history.  The Civil War statue was built in the 1890s and was in various locations and states of condition before finding a permanent home at the historical society.  At one point, during New York City’s Dark Years, the statue had even literally fallen into the Bronx River and been left due to scarce financial resources and indifference. Thankfully it was eventually rescued and now serves as a reminder of the sacrifice made by the men of the area.

I am sorry the location names are illegible.  A better camera is in my near future, I promise.  At least one can see from the title that Civil War memory was important to the area in the post war years.  As I always say, history is all around us if we just stop to look.  This particular book covers Brooklyn, not the Bronx, but here is one of my favorite titles.

William Saward was a member of the 9th New York, Hawkins Zouaves.  The 9th New York served under Ambrose Burnside. Saward died in April 1862.

Yes, that is the General Warren statue on Little Round Top.  The Saward family visited Gettysburg in the late 1890s.  I love the lady holding the parasol on the far right.

As elsewhere, the Grand Army of the Republic was a powerful presence in the Bronx.

This is a Decoration Day, 1911.

…and Memorial Day circa 1950.  Note the cars to the right.  In that decade before the Centennial there were still many people throughout the country with a living connection, through their parents or grandparents, to the war.


We walked ten or so blocks to the Edgar Allen Poe house on the Grand Concourse.  The house is closed for renovation but at least we saw it from the outside.  Poe rented the cottage from the Varians.

When Poe lived here the Bronx was rural and remote.  As the photo shows, it now lies in the heart of this vibrant community.

The afternoon made me realize that the Bronx is more than just getting on the subway and going to a baseball game.  I look forward to exploring the only borough that lies within the contiguous U.S. in greater depth.  When I do, I will bring that new camera.

My Civil War neighborhood

20 Wednesday Apr 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in New York City

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(Hat tip Susan Ingram)

For reasons that are easy to understand most of the Civil War focus is on the South, which makes sense being that the majority of the fighting took place there.  It is helpful to remember, though, that the Civil War can be found all around us.  Here are a few examples within walking distance of my home.

Major General Henry Halleck

Two of the four Union Generals-in-Chief are interred in New York City.  Halleck is in Brooklyn’s Green-Wood Cemetery and Grant in Manhattan.  Winfield Scott is just up the the Hudson at West Point.

The dog is a nice touch.

Halleck’s son is next to his mother and father.

William Marcy Tweed

“Boss” Tweed was the political powerbroker who almost derailed Colonel Washington Roebling’s Great Bridge in the 1870s.  Roebling was a staff officer under General Gouverneur Kemble Warren and later married his sister.

Abolitionist and newspaperman Horace Greeley

Upset with corruption in the Grant Administration Greeley ran against the incumbent as a third party candidate in 1872.  Greeley lost in a landslide and died shortly thereafter, but it is testimony to his prominence that he rests atop his own hill.

The pen is mightier than the sword

Three quick stories of my Civil War.  Find yours.

A New York tragedy

25 Friday Mar 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in New York City

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Hey everybody,

I couldn’t let the 100th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire go unnoticed.  It was one hundred years ago today that a fire in the factory of the Triangle Shirtwaist Company took the lives of 146 workers.  Most of these were young Italian and Jewish immigrant women who had passed through Ellis Island in recent years.  These women, teenage girls in some cases, lived in nearby Little Italy and Lower East Side and worked a six-day schedule making ladies’ shirtwaists for about $10 per week.  The cause of death in many cases was not burning but asphyxiation and, tragically, trauma caused by victims leaping to their death to avoid the intense heat.  Mayor Bloomberg and other dignitaries were on hand at what was then the Asch and is today the Brown Building at 29 Washington Place in Greenwich Village.  There were also descendants of the Triangle victims present to pay their respects to their grandparents and great-grandparents.

More lives would have been saved if the factory owners had not violated regulations by locking various doors and putting heavy equipment in front of others.  The Fire Department responded quickly to the emergency but the factory was situated on the top floors, too high for the fire ladders.  It was at this time, in a scene similar to 9/11 ninety years later, that onlookers saw dozens of victims jumping to their deaths.  It was the costliest workplace mishap in New York City’s history and a quarter million New Yorkers looked on a few days later when 100,000 individuals marched in the memorial service.  The public nature of the tragedy led to an outcry that spurred new employee safety regulations.

Unfortunately I was unable to attend, but the Gotham Center for New York City History held a number of events this week analyzing and commemorating the event.  This past Monday PBS’s American Experience aired Triangle Fire, which they will certainly air again.  Home Box Office (HBO) is airing a documentary, Triangle: Remembering the Fire, through April.  Check your listings.



Happy Bicentennial, New York City grid

23 Wednesday Mar 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in New York City

≈ Comments Off on Happy Bicentennial, New York City grid

https://i0.wp.com/upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a6/NYC-GRID-1811.png

Courtesy:  Jleon, Wikimedia Commons

I’m surprised this hasn’t gotten more attention than it has, but Tuesday is the 200th anniversary of the Commissioner’s Plan.  Many people over the centuries have derided the scheme that organized Manhattan into geometrically precise streets and avenues as soulless and cold.  I couldn’t disagree more.  It’s hard to imagine New York City becoming the de facto capital of the world without it.  Until the grid most New Yorkers were clustered below Houston Street in a confused maze of streets and lanes.  The Grid Plan facilitated transportation and trade, divided real estate into more easily salable parcels, and opened what were once woods and empty fields to residential and commercial development.  The numbering system on the streets (1st Street, 2nd Street, etc.) was—and is—especially helpful to immigrants who otherwise could not have read the street names.  The numbers tell the story.  There were only 100,000 New Yorkers in 1811; a century later there were 4.4 million; today there are approximately 8.2 million souls drawn to New York’s intellectual, financial, and cultural allure.

Mayor DeWitt Clinton created the Commission in 1807 and after four years of diligent work its plan was approved on March 22, 1811.  Clinton had served as a U.S. senator at the turn of the century and clearly had been inspired by Pierre L’Enfant’s layout of the nation’s new capital.  If he had only done the Grid Plan, DeWitt Clinton’s place in history would have been ensured.  Yet it was just the first of his important projects.  Later as governor he helped build the Erie Canal, which opened in 1825 and linked New York City and State to the mid West via that Great Lake.  One of the most awe inspiring things about Manhattan is looking up and seeing the avenues stretching like canyons for miles on end.  It always surprises me how little one hears about DeWitt Clinton and his design for the city.  I think many New Yorkers assume the city has always just been here as it is today.  In a way it is oddly fitting that so few have taken the time to notice the bicentennial.  As the saying goes, “If you want to see the man’s legacy, just look around you.”

The other Grand Army Plaza

21 Monday Mar 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in Monuments and Statuary, National Park Service, New York City

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Ask most Brooklynites where Grand Army Plaza is and they will give you an answer, even if they have no notion of what Grand Army the plaza commemorates.  It is the area just before the entrance to Prospect Park, where Flatbush and Eastern Parkway divide.  One passes it all the time on the way to the greenmarket, the central library, the museum, or the botanical garden.  The other day I was in Manhattan on some non-Civil War related business when I came across the “other” Grand Army Plaza, the one virtually no New Yorker, however proud, would be able to identify as such.  I intend to do a more systematic series of posts on Civil War statuary in New York this spring and summer but couldn’t resist sharing a few snaps I took on the last day of winter 2011.


The plaza is at the corner of Fifth Avenue and Central Park South.

It was a crisp, bright day and there was a sizable crowd watching some street performers.  In the background is the General Sherman statue.

Augustus Saint-Gaudens designed the statue.  Charles McKim, a frequent collaborator, built the pedestal.

Most famously the two worked together on the Robert Gould Shaw Memorial which sits in Boston Common.  When I was in Washington two weeks ago I saw the plaster mold that the National Park Service has loaned longterm to the National Gallery of Art.  One can see the similarities.

Whatever the season this area just outside Central Park is always a happening spot.

That’s the Plaza Hotel in the background.  One reason the statue works so well is because it fits proportionally into its surroundings.  Saint-Gaudens and McKim hoped to put the work just outside Grant’s Tomb, but Sherman’s family disapproved.  The tomb and this statue are both representative of the City Beautiful movement.  Saint-Gaudens’ final masterpiece was dedicated in 1903, six years after Grant’s mausoleum.

I often wonder if the men and women of the Civil War era could have imagined the multicultural twenty-first century America they helped bequeath to us.

Thanks for checking in.

Civil War subway trip

28 Monday Feb 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in National Park Service, New York City, Subway trips, Ulysses S. Grant (General and President)

≈ 1 Comment

Hey everybody,

This past Saturday the Hayfoot and I took the A train to a site that, sadly, most New Yorkers no longer visit: Grant’s Tomb.  For decades after it was dedicated in 1897, the mausoleum was one of the most visited places in Manhattan.  Tens of thousands from across the country turned out annually to pay their respects.  Now, as you can see, that is no longer the case.  That’s the Mrs. on the far left.

The National Park Service acquired the General Grant National Memorial, as it is properly called, in 1959.  We took in a discussion led by a very knowledgeable ranger.  There aren’t many displays but the ones they do have are informative and cover Grant’s career in its entirety.

These regimental flags are reproductions

…with the exception of this one that belonged to the 11th Indiana, Colonel Lew Wallace commanding.  It was covered with glass, which is why the photo is a bit difficult to make out.

In a rare misstep, the Park Service built these benches around the perimeter of the tomb in the 1970s.  I think they were trying to be relevant.

In a better use of the space, the public area outside has been a regular stop on Harlem’s Jazzmobile going back nearly five decades.  We’re going to try to get up there this summer.

It opened in 1897 at the height of the reconciliation phase.

Hayfoot and Strawfoot

The final resting place of President and Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant.

And then it was on to Ethiopian cuisine in Harlem.

Thanks for checking in.

Keith

“My” Civil War

24 Thursday Feb 2011

Posted by Keith Muchowski in New York City

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Hey everybody,

No, I’m not on a quick jaunt to Gettysburg.  This statue of General Gouverneur Warren should not be confused with this one.

I took these photos right here in Brooklyn.  That they are a bit hard to make out is part of my point.  Yesterday I left work and hopped on the subway to check out a few items at the Central Library.  I had exited the subway and was walking up the hill when I came across the Savior of Little Round Top.  As dusk was setting in I took a few quick snaps on my cell phone camera before heading off to the library and eventually a slice of pizza.

No one loves living in New York City more than I do.  That said, I often felt vaguely resentful about not being closer to our Civil War battlefields.  I have always know of course about New York City’s role in the conflict, but felt far removed from the war because getting to Shiloh, Fredericksburg, Antietam, and elsewhere is a challenge.  My epiphany came about six months ago when I realized I could have “my” Civil War within the five boroughs I call home.

One cannot understand the American Civil War without understanding the battles and battlefields.  Walking Pickett’s Charge I learned things from the undulations of the terrain that I could not have gotten from any book; standing on the bluff above Burnside Bridge I finally understood why that Union general was so long in getting his men across the Antietam.  I’ll continue to read about the campaigns and to visit the battlefields and walk in the footsteps of the courageous men who gave us our history.

Still, there is more to the war than left obliques.

It was early last fall after a trip to Green-Wood Cemetery with my father-in-law that the lightbulb went off and I realized just how much Civil War history is around me on a daily basis.  It’s evident in statuary like the one dedicated to Warren, in sites like Cooper Union where Lincoln gave his speech, and even in the names of our subway stations (Grand Army Plaza).  Not only that, we are blessed here with world-renowned historical societies, libraries, and museums that contain unique collections of material—material that might be used by yours truly to find his niche in this whole thing.  Suddenly the war didn’t seem so far away anymore.  And that’s when the resentment went away.

Just a little story I thought I’d share.

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